Shrub Rose [Chewbullseye]
A Rosa Persica hybrid which gives the flower its unique dark red eye. With out doubt this is one of the most eye catching new rose varieties to appear for a long time, it is a very free flowering plant producing masses of mid sized open centred blooms, ideal for attracting pollinating insects.The foliage is bright glossy green in colour with exceptional disease resistance, it repeat flowers and could be grown in a large container.90 x 80 cm
A gold standard rose.
An illustrated leaflet with planting instructions will accompany each delivery.
It is best to plant your roses as soon as possible after receiving them, remember they are living plants. If planting is delayed it is best to leave the package un-opened until you are ready to plant. If you would like to see the plants carefully reseal any packaging after inspection, this is to prevent the roses drying out. Never let the roots dry out, this will result in plant losses, if they do dry immerse in water for about an hour before planting or if soil conditions will not allow replace in the packaging until planting. Store the roses in a cool but frost free building, e.g. a garage; they will keep in good condition for up to ten days.
Good soil preparation is essential to get the best results.
Wait until the soil is in a workable condition, dig a hole large enough to accommodate the roots when fully spread, break the bottom to encourage drainage. At this stage incorporate some organic matter, this provides a source of nutrients and also helps retain moisture, e.g. well rotted manure or garden compost. Planting depth is important, when finished the point at which the stems leave the main root should be slightly below ground level. Backfill the hole with fine soil spreading the roots as you go ensuring good soil contact, gently firming at the same time.
Finish off by carefully firming around the base of the plant with your foot, apply some rose fertilizer around the plant, to manufacturer's recommended rates and lightly rake the soil to get a level finish. Roses handled carefully and properly planted transplant very well. They are suited to a range of soil types and situations however they do not succeed in wet boggy areas.
Extra care must be taken if replanting an area which has had roses previously growing on it; this is because the soil can get a problem and become ''rose - sick''.
The best remedy is to dig a hole about half as big again as a normal planting hole, remove the soil and replace it e.g. with soil from another part of the garden or bought top soil, then plant as normal.
If grown against a wall or fence dig the planting hole at least 30cm from the wall, this ensures no contact is made with underground masonary and avoids dry soil. Angle the plant towards the wall, use canes to secure the stems and tie onto the supporting wires or trellis.
In the first year after planting make sure the plants do not dry out, be prepared to water in prolonged dry periods. Use a proprietary Rose fertilizer to manufacturers instructions each spring, this will encourage strong healthy growth and more flowers. Mulch applied around the plants will suppress weed growth and help retain moisture, manure or garden compost are both suitable.
Our roses are specially selected to have a high natural resistance to the main rose diseases, however we recommend you use a proprietary Rose spray to ensure healthy free flowering plants.
A variety of ready to use products are available from garden centres which protect against both pests and disease.
At all times follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
PRUNING AT PLANTING TIME
The roses you receive will have been shortened before dispatch. We recommend you prune roses after planting this will lay the foundation for a well shaped plant in the future. After planting prune all shoots to 7-15cm (3-6in) above ground level, ensure cuts are to outward facing buds preferably slanting away from the bud to shed water. If you are planting container grown roses in active growth wait until their dormant season to prune.
Aim to prune in January or February using sharp secateurs. Firstly remove any dead, diseased or dying wood; aim to produce a bush with an open centre, remove any crossing shoots or spindly growth cutting to outward facing buds. How much wood you remove depends on the type of rose.
Reduce the main stems to four to six buds, about 15cm - 6in from where they branch. Prune some of the older stems harder to promote new growth.
Prune the strongest shoots to leave around 25cm - 10in of stem, prune any weaker shoots harder to promote stronger growth.
Aim to train the main shoots towards the horizontal, tie in to wires or trellis, this encourages the plant to produce flowers throught its length. Reduce the previous years flowering shoots to three or four buds, tie in as they grow.
Unless they need restraining leave these alone, otherwise treat like climbers.
Prune lightly reducing current season's shoots by about one third.
To produce a more compact and rounded plant, tip back to retain the shape and size that you require.